PORTRAIT OF SONIA RYKIEL

"Fashion is a constantly evolving form of art. It is a continuous exploration of new creative territories." — Sonia Rykiel

Sonia Rykiel was convinced that fashion extended beyond mere clothing; it was an art form that constantly evolved and ceaselessly explored new creative horizons.

I don't want to delve deeply into her creations — her knits with external seams, her iconic stripes, and the printed words that opened up possibilities for feminine expression… Others have brilliantly shed light on her work.

I prefer to recount my encounters with the woman I crossed paths with numerous times, the one who gamely posed for photos with clients from around the world who came to purchase her collections in the large spaces where we were like a swarm of bees, and where Madame Rykiel was undeniably the queen.

I would like to describe her aura, the one that radiated when she appeared, perched on her platform shoes, often dressed in a long black jacket, her auburn hair and gray-tinged eyes, but that is a rather challenging exercise.

Sonia Rykiel had a presence that naturally commanded respect while leaving an air of mystery, as if she hadn't revealed everything.

I also remember her window displays filled with books, where she paid homage to various authors; it was her personal touch, a desire to share one of her many passions.

As I write these lines, reflecting on my beginnings, I realize the influence she has had on me, and perhaps this is why I presented various collections over five beautiful years.

An experience I will never forget was being chosen to present her new line, "Woman," in preview.

Why me? Why was I chosen among so many other women? I still do not know the answer, but I vividly remember the wave of panic that swept over me upon discovering this preview. Because "Woman" was neither a ready-to-wear line nor an accessories line; it was dedicated to female pleasures, with tiny vibrators resembling little yellow ducks, like those used for children's baths, or a lipstick that looks like a lipstick but is in fact a cleverly disguised object from a handbag, alongside beautiful lingerie.

Imagine lifting a fringed velvet curtain and entering a subdued ambiance, having to demonstrate, as it was my privilege to do so! Worse still, in the presence of my boss, who insisted that I be more demonstrative while I, feeling awkward, preferred to linger on the beautiful lace and above all, the French know-how.

Later, when the "Woman" line was presented in-store, and I had to give an overview of the Rykiel house to potential clients, I left the "introductions" to the sales associate, and believe me, the product line had expanded significantly, and I was quite happy to be just a spectator.

True to herself, Sonia Rykiel dared to shake up mentalities and transformed the perception of sex toys by associating them with fashion rather than shame or vulgarity. A Parisian boudoir more glamorous than sex shops. Her unique way of desacralizing these objects while adding a touch of humor and freedom was remarkable.

Yes, it was better to smile in front of the sign "Adults Only", which already announced the tone.

Because that was exactly it: freedom, humor, affirmation, autonomy. Sensual messages like declarations, a modern and liberated vision far from the dictates imposed by society.

I don't believe in coincidence, especially regarding the year she opened her first boutique on Rue de Grenelle in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, in 1968.

A year marked by events that shaped and profoundly influenced the course of social and political history worldwide. From protests against the Vietnam War to our own May 68, and the assassinations of civil rights leaders like Martin Luther King Jr. and Robert F. Kennedy, to profound cultural changes particularly linked to music and art.

As the world was in turmoil, many artists expressed their anger through their works. In film, Jean-Luc Godard was the director of the Nouvelle Vague, using cinema to critique society and express revolutionary ideas.

Similarly, Jimi Hendrix with his music, particularly "If 6 Was 9," an anthem for the freedom to be oneself. Bob Dylan with "The Times They Are a-Changin'," which expresses the necessity to act against social injustices. Yoko Ono and John Lennon, fervent advocates for peace, used art and music to promote peaceful protest.

These artists, among many others, captured the spirit of rebellion of the time, transforming social anger into a powerful cultural and artistic movement, leaving us with invaluable heritage. Sonia Rykiel, by revolutionizing fashion and promoting the emancipation of women, was a pioneer.

Liberating the female body, distancing it from the rigid structures of traditional fashion while asserting women's right to dress according to their own desires.

For Sonia Rykiel, each garment should allow the wearer to express her personality, much like my approach in advising my clients based on their unique needs. Just like her, I believe that every woman should feel good in her own skin. I strive to offer fashion that resonates, fitting into their personal stories, as their wardrobe accompanies them in their quest for authenticity.

It was important for me to share my memories with you, but more importantly, to tell you about this woman whose philosophy resonates deeply within me.

Today, I wonder what her message would be and what new revolution Sonia Rykiel would have initiated...

I have a few ideas for messages embroidered or printed on her iconic knits:

"CELEBRATE YOURSELF" 

"BE BOLD" 

"EMPOWERED" 

"LOVE YOURSELF"

And the word "REINVENTION" would probably be the best choice to express her vision and temperament in the contemporary context we live in today. It evokes the idea of transformation and change, as well as creativity, innovation, and rediscovery of oneself. Sonia Rykiel would undoubtedly have found an artistic way to challenge norms and continuously renew her approach to fashion, aligning perfectly with the spirit of reinvention.

Let us not forget that Sonia Rykiel left us a wonderful legacy…

Thank you, Madame Rykiel.